When you have a small yard the thought of spraying crabgrass preventer or any other pre-emergent is simple. But those of us with larger lawns love to find shortcuts to make taking care of our lawn easier. So when it comes time to apply liquid products to our lawns, a hose end sprayer comes to mind.
The problem with a host end sprayer is consistency. With a pre-emergence you want even, full, coverage. With a hose end sprayer you get a much less consistent results and can easily miss spots. So for products where accuracy matters it’s best to use a handheld or backpack sprayer.
There is hope! There are sprayers on wheels that work similar to a spreader, and there are sprayers that can be towed-behind. But if your lawn isn’t large enough to need that, remember that all the time you put into preventing weeds will be paid off with a year of weed free beautiful grass 😉
One of the key signs you have grubs is damage from your lawn. This can come in two forms: Either an animal creating holds and lifting the turf to eat the grubs, or the grubs eating away at the roots of your lawn causing the turf to die. The first thing you need to do, is find out if you do have a grub problem:
Once you have determined you do have a grub problem, there are a few steps you can take. The biggest factor will be the time of year. If it’s Spring or early Summer a preventative method is best, if it’s late Summer or early Fall a curative method is best.
How to prevent Grubs in the first place
The “old” way was to use a product containing imidacloprid. This would kill the baby grubs preventing a new cycle of problems. However there is research that leads many to believe this also kills good bugs like honey bees. Good news, chlorantraniliprole is found to be just as effective, if not more, and has less of an impact on our environment.
The problem with Chlorantraniliprole, however, is it takes longer to work into the soil. This means you’ll need to put it down sooner in the year than imidacloprid. MSU recommends applying in April, or whenever you lawn turns green in the spring.
It’s also crucial to water this in. Watering it in brings the chemical into the soil where the grubs are. At least a half inch of water is needed immediately after applying. This ensures the product works itself into the soil, and gets off the grass keeping it away from animals and children.
How to kill Grubs after they become a problem
If you can no longer use a preventative method, but the problem isn’t too bad, you could wait until the next season to apply preventative. I personally am all for using less chemicals. If, however the problem is severe then using a curative approach will be necessary.
It’s important to remember that this won’t stop the grubs forever, you’ll still need to use preventative methods the following season. These products will only kill 20-80% of grubs if used in September, less when used in other months.
When looking for a product to use, the chemicals are carbaryl and trichlorfon. The easiest way to find trichlorfon is the label will say it kills grubs within 24 hours of contact. Technically speaking trichlorfon can kill within 24 hours, but realistically it can take a week before you see it’s results. Carbaryl can take up to a month.
What about Nematodes for Grub Prevention?
I haven’t personally used nematodes so I can’t say they do or don’t work. However, many people who do use them have said they worked well. The general concept is that Nematodes carry a bacteria which kills the grubs, and the nematodes feed on them. It’s a safe an natural way to reduce the grub population. The key is to apply them when the grubs are small.
Many homeowners will make the mistake of watering their lawn too often, causing the lawn to grow shallow roots that dry out quickly. When the heat of summer comes, it can become impossible to keep your lawn from going dormant.
Water an inch at a time
To encourage your lawn to grow deep roots, it’s important to put down an inch of water all at once. This will saturate the soil and cause the roots to grow deep to soak it all in. Ideally you should have already begun doing this in the spring time, so the roots are already growing nice and deep.
Hand watering may be necessary
Many times the roads, driveways, and side walks will become hot and dry out the lawn bordering them. If that happens, it’s important to hand water those areas. You don’t want the entire lawn becoming dependent on frequent watering when it’s only those problem areas that need it.
Use Weather Underground
When it rains it’s easy to think your lawn has had enough water, but unless you have a rain gauge you won’t really know. I prefer to use Weather Underground to monitor local weather stations my neighbors have installed to see exactly how much rain I’ve received. One storm I received 1/10th of an inch of water, when friends not too far from me had and inch of rainfall. If I went by what they said my lawn would have gone dormant, but instead I watered that day to make sure it had enough water for the week.
Learn your Lawn’s Signs
If you pay attention to your lawn, ideally you should water when it starts to show signs of needing water. You’ll see a slight change in the hue of your grass, almost like it’s a blue/gray color. You may also notice the blades starting to curl or wilt. This is when you need to water, or your lawn will start to go dormant.
Tip #5: Go with the flow
Depending on your grass type, soil type, temperatures, etc, you may need to water more frequently than once a week. For instance, I switch to watering twice a week during the hot summer months because of water restrictions. I can’t water my lawn every 4-5 days when it needs it, so instead I’ll water it twice a week. I’ll also adjust how much I water based on rainfall, temperature, and whether my lawn’s signs are telling me it needs more water. The key is to watch your lawn’s signs, and try to water as much as possible every time it needs it, so the roots grow strong and vigorous.
